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Won't shift into Nuetral while running

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    Won't shift into Nuetral while running

    is this the dreaded detent spring I've head tell about? It starts fine, runs fine, shifts fine. It just won't go onto neutral while running. If I shut the bike off I can find neutral just fine. As always your help is appreciated.

    #2
    Hmm, someone more knowledgeable should be along, but if it's a new phenomenon, could be.

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      #3
      Its just nice to be able to shift to neutral while stopped once you can see mom in her minivan isn't going to squash you into the truck in front of you.

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        #4
        BTW how did I get such a cool title?

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        • Dr.D
          Dr.D commented
          Editing a comment
          It’s a default setting at this time. It’s not like you’re really that special. LOL.

        #5
        If it's shifting good then it's not the detent spring. Sounds like it just needs an adjustment.

        Go to your profile settings to change your status.

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          #6
          I don’t think it’s the detent spring, I’ve replaced mine in the last year and it is still difficult sometimes, it will refuse to shift unless I rock it back and forth and clutch it. Sometimes it will be in neutral and the light doesnt come on, for me it’s play with the clutch cable adjustment and make sure there is just a little slack. Do you take it on down to first and gently come up? It’s sometimes hard to find that little half click between 1st and 2nd. If you solve it let me know, I’m fighting the same problem.

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            #7
            Sounds to me as if the clutch lifter is worn or badly adjusted. Probably both. Where's the clutchmaster Warp9.9

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              #8
              It is indeed the clutch lifter shaft. The one that rotates via the external arm. When the tips of the slot wear the clutch doesn't open as far. You can cheat the free play a little but once you run out of free play and still can't get the clutch to release, this shaft needs to be replaced. Also replace the lifter which is the part with the head that pulls the clutch cover to release the plates. These two parts wear together so once one is worn beyond service, the other is too. Also, the lifter bearing that fits into the clutch spring plate/cover can wear into that cover. The bearing outer race rotates in the plate's bore so the edge of the race wears into the lip at the end of the bore. Mine needed a 0.010" bearing shim to bring the linkage into correct alignment. A new cover plate would work too.

              Another reason for clutch drag is warped clutch plates. Heavy use or abuse can cause over-heating which cups the plates. With the engine clutch cover off to replace the shafts, inspection of the plates takes another five minutes.


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                #9
                Originally posted by Speedy View Post
                It is indeed the clutch lifter shaft. The one that rotates via the external arm. When the tips of the slot wear the clutch doesn't open as far. You can cheat the free play a little but once you run out of free play and still can't get the clutch to release, this shaft needs to be replaced. Also replace the lifter which is the part with the head that pulls the clutch cover to release the plates. These two parts wear together so once one is worn beyond service, the other is too. Also, the lifter bearing that fits into the clutch spring plate/cover can wear into that cover. The bearing outer race rotates in the plate's bore so the edge of the race wears into the lip at the end of the bore. Mine needed a 0.010" bearing shim to bring the linkage into correct alignment. A new cover plate would work too.

                Another reason for clutch drag is warped clutch plates. Heavy use or abuse can cause over-heating which cups the plates. With the engine clutch cover off to replace the shafts, inspection of the plates takes another five minutes.

                Wow, I guess this new forum isn’t just for bitching and spewing foolishness.🤣 Well done mate.

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                  #10
                  Norm post a picture of cable being pulled at knurl so we can see gap

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                    #11
                    wait! We're actually gonna talk about motor sickles?????? 😵

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                      #12
                      I agree with Blaine you're not getting enough rotational lift because the fork tab sections on the liftershaft are worn. Easy job is this the engine swap Norm? And wasn't it a newer roadster motor?

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                        #13
                        Now that I recall, I had a similar issue once, but it was adjustment, clutch wasn't disengaging all the way, maybe you'll get lucky

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                          #14
                          BigNorm How did this work out ?

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                            #15
                            My 2007 Classic has been developing that. Still in the adjust the clutch cable stage. Approaching 60K miles. Making a list of things to do to see if it is cheaper just to buy a newer Roadster.

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