is this the dreaded detent spring I've head tell about? It starts fine, runs fine, shifts fine. It just won't go onto neutral while running. If I shut the bike off I can find neutral just fine. As always your help is appreciated.
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Won't shift into Nuetral while running
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I don’t think it’s the detent spring, I’ve replaced mine in the last year and it is still difficult sometimes, it will refuse to shift unless I rock it back and forth and clutch it. Sometimes it will be in neutral and the light doesnt come on, for me it’s play with the clutch cable adjustment and make sure there is just a little slack. Do you take it on down to first and gently come up? It’s sometimes hard to find that little half click between 1st and 2nd. If you solve it let me know, I’m fighting the same problem.
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It is indeed the clutch lifter shaft. The one that rotates via the external arm. When the tips of the slot wear the clutch doesn't open as far. You can cheat the free play a little but once you run out of free play and still can't get the clutch to release, this shaft needs to be replaced. Also replace the lifter which is the part with the head that pulls the clutch cover to release the plates. These two parts wear together so once one is worn beyond service, the other is too. Also, the lifter bearing that fits into the clutch spring plate/cover can wear into that cover. The bearing outer race rotates in the plate's bore so the edge of the race wears into the lip at the end of the bore. Mine needed a 0.010" bearing shim to bring the linkage into correct alignment. A new cover plate would work too.
Another reason for clutch drag is warped clutch plates. Heavy use or abuse can cause over-heating which cups the plates. With the engine clutch cover off to replace the shafts, inspection of the plates takes another five minutes.
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Wow, I guess this new forum isn’t just for bitching and spewing foolishness.🤣 Well done mate.Originally posted by Speedy View PostIt is indeed the clutch lifter shaft. The one that rotates via the external arm. When the tips of the slot wear the clutch doesn't open as far. You can cheat the free play a little but once you run out of free play and still can't get the clutch to release, this shaft needs to be replaced. Also replace the lifter which is the part with the head that pulls the clutch cover to release the plates. These two parts wear together so once one is worn beyond service, the other is too. Also, the lifter bearing that fits into the clutch spring plate/cover can wear into that cover. The bearing outer race rotates in the plate's bore so the edge of the race wears into the lip at the end of the bore. Mine needed a 0.010" bearing shim to bring the linkage into correct alignment. A new cover plate would work too.
Another reason for clutch drag is warped clutch plates. Heavy use or abuse can cause over-heating which cups the plates. With the engine clutch cover off to replace the shafts, inspection of the plates takes another five minutes.
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